The introduction of the latest version of the “UNI EN 1811” norm completely changed the standards for nickel-release limits in the jewelry field. Jewelry producers basically had three choices for their white-gold alloys: 1) the use of a nickel-free, palladium-based master alloy, 2) new master alloys specifically studied to have a low nickel release, or 3) the use of traditional nickel-based master alloys, which exposed them to punitive action.

The two main whitening elements in 14K and 18K white-gold alloys present problems: nickel can cause an allergic reaction, and the higher cost and physical characteristics of palladium make it less desirable. This paper describes the development of a revolutionary Ni/Pd-free series of master alloys for all karats of white gold that is easier to use and has a lower cost. These alloys mark an evolutionary step forward for jewelry makers.

Author: Diego Peretti